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[Tahn]

"And as I pointed out before, if you have a specific tractor model you would like me to rate, let me know. I'm concentrating mainly on the pre-1970's tractors, but I can comment on some newer ones as well."

 Well, since you asked I would like to hear about the Ford 3000 I have, when you get to it. Thanks again!

[jimoutside]

#12. Ford 3000, 3600. 1965-81. 38-41 hp.

NOTE: I have not operated these particular models, or had detailed conversations with friends who have. Therefore my personal knowledge of them is limited and I am extrapolating from my data sources and my knowledge of other Ford models.

Weight: 3700-4400 lbs. Reliability: 90-100%. Availability: 100%. Parts avail: 100% Forward speeds: (3000) 4, 8, 10, or 12. 10-speed is powershiftable Select-O-Speed. (3600) 8 usually, reportedly a 6-speed was available. Fuels: Available as diesel or gasoline. Complexity: 50-65% dep on options. Charisma: 60-70%. Implement availability: 100% Loader suitability: 60% (80% if equipped with 4x4). Power lift: purpose built three-point hitch, category I. PTO: 540 RPM Transmission drive, or optionally, continuous. The continuous is better, check which it has if you buy one as it is a good selling point.

Configuration: These tractors are both in the familiar utility configuration, with low center of gravity, and medium under axle clearance.

Notes: The Ford 4-digit tractors have a good reputation generally. The 3000 and 3600 are widespread in distribution and I have never heard anything particularly bad about them. They came with a lot of great options, so when shopping be sure to notice which options are on the machine you're looking at. Common options included several different transmissions for the 3000 (finding the 10 or 12 speed ones would be great), power steering was optional, differential lock, remote hydraulic outlet, roll-bar, live PTO and so on. A few were even equipped with a 4x4 front axle, but whether from the factory or after-market I don't know. Finding a 4x4 one would be great, particularly for loader work, logging, tillage, or hillside work. Some 3600's came with cabs. Currently, the 3000's seem to be selling for around $3-6,000 and the 3600's for around $4-8,000. These are great tractors for haying and doing odd jobs on the small farm or homestead. They are very handy with 3-point implements and serve as adequate loader models. Expect to find the 3000 or 3600 suitable for 10-40 acres, or for use in conjunction with larger tractors for larger operations.

My rating: 90%



3000 with 4x4, 2-post ROPS with canopy, and grill guard.

[jimoutside]

#13. John Deere D, 1923-53.  27-42 hp.

Note: The model D was the first mass-produced tractor to bear the John Deere name. Its 30-year production run was practically unparalleled, except by the Farmall Cub. The design was constantly being updated and modified in little ways throughout its production life, but especially in the first 15 years or so. The biggest changes came with the introduction of a bigger bore resulting in more power in 1927,  a three-speed transmission to replace the 2-speed in 1935, and most noticeable, was when it was styled, in or around 1939. The styling did little to improve functionality. All 2-speed models will be referred to as 2S, and 3-speed as 3S. Basically, as time went on, more and more options and improved standard features were introduced. Keep in mind that the model D production history was one of gradual evolution, and not drastic leaps.

Weight-4,000-6,000 lbs. Reliability: (within the owner/operator's ability to understand antique technology) 100%. Availability: 80% but regionally 100% on the high plains, lower Mississippi rice land, and northwest. Parts avail: 60% (mostly available from ag scrap yards and specialty shops). Transmission speeds: 2 (2S) 3 (3S). (If you read the paragraph above that should be obvious). Fuels avail: All D's were built with an all-fuel engine, a low compression spark ignition design which can handle kerosene, distillate, furnace oil, diesel fuel, gasoline, ethanol, etc. Complexity: 5-20% (2S), 20-35% (3S). Charisma: 70-80% (2S), 80-90% (3S). Implement avail: 30-50% (can not use 3-point implements). Loader suitability: 0-10%. PTO: rarely fitted early on, increasingly popular option as time went on. Transmission driven 540 RPM, offset to the left. Even late in production many were sold without PTO. Power lift: Never had one. The operator's position behind, rather than over, the rear axle makes it practically impossible to retrofit any kind of rear power lift or 3-point hitch. A few late production 3-speed machines were fitted with an optional remote hydraulic outlet.

Configuration: All model D's were built as standard tread models, also called wheatland models. They are low and squat, with fixed tread front and rear, with the operator's position behind the rear axle.

Notes: I almost didn't bother putting the model D down in the lineup because of its antiquity and obsolescence, but for a TEOTWAWKI situation, the D makes a lot of sense because of its ability to run on a variety of fuels, and its sheer reliability and mechanical simplicity. It was built to PULL, and pull it does. You will need to find drawbar implements since it cannot use 3-point implements or most mounted implements. Look for old non-hydraulic 3- and 4-bottom plows, 8-12 ft. tandem disks, and so on. If you're lucky enough to find a D equipped with PTO and a remote hydraulic outlet, then blessed art thou among tractor owners. The D has enough PTO power to run most small square balers, as well as other appropriately sized PTO equipment including small tow-behind combines. The PTO shaft is in a dangerous location, though, beside the driver's left leg. If you have a D equipped with PTO, please make sure you find some way to shield it to make it safer. If you have flat-belt powered implements, don't discount the D's 42 hp on the belt pulley (all D's are equipped with a belt pulley from the factory). The monstrous 6.75x7" 2-cylinder engine has 501 cubic inches-- more than many 6-cylinder diesels. Some people have had luck tuning the engines to produce more power, especially while burning gasoline. The D is extremely reliable if you follow the operator's manual. However, its rear wheels are barely able to transfer all the torque and power to the ground effectively, so if you use it for heavy tillage, you might consider replacing the tires with radials and widening the tire size. And/or try putting duals on it. That 7" stroke of the engine puts out a lot of torque-- the D is a very charismatic tractor under load. Most of them were fitted with a magneto rather than distributor, meaning you can start and run it without a battery or electrical system. For those of you gulching in the high plains, rocky mountain, or pacific northwest states, the D was very popular in those areas and you may find them around quite a bit. For those of you in the Texarkana area, the D was also very popular in the rice fields. Look to find them there as well. Because of its utility limitations, I don't recommend that a D be the only tractor you have. If you have one, you should be able to easily till 40-100 acres a year or better. They are a popular collector's piece right now, but in areas where they were popular you should be able to pick up running examples for $3,000 or less. Definitely get a 3-speed one with a PTO. Try to find one with hydraulics. My rating: 25% (2S), 35% (2S with PTO, 3S w/o PTO) 50% (3S with PTO) 60% (3S with PTO and hydraulic outlet).



This is an unstyled 3-speed D. By this time PTO was available, but on this example was absent. To the left of the diagonal seat shaft you can see a shadowed square-- this is where the PTO assembly would bolt on if it had one. This particular example is a very simple machine to operate-- only a steering wheel, three levers, and a brake pedal.

[jimoutside]

I plan to review the John Deere models 40, 420, and 430 next. I have done some of the preliminary research. Now, however, I must go to bed.

[jimoutside]

#14. John Deere 40, 420, 430. 1953-1960. 25-29 hp.

Note: The John Deere 40 replaced the M and MT series (my #10 post earlier). The 40 was replaced by the 420 series, and the 420 was replaced by the 430. Generally, a lot of small changes were made along the way-- mutations, if you will, and within any model the later ones are generally better than the earlier ones. Also keep in mind that these tractors were built in 11+ configurations each, 3 different fuel options, and with dozens of additional options, all of which make for some variation of specifications.

Weight: 2900-4600 lbs depending on model, configuration, and options. Reliability: Typically 90-100%, with the 430 models generally 100% Availability: 100% Parts avail: generally 100% but some optional items will be harder to get. Transmission speeds: 4 (40), 4 or 5 (420, 430). Fuels available: gasoline (all, most common), "all-fuel" low-compression for alternative liquid fuels (all), propane (420, 430 only). Complexity: 45% (40), 45-65% (420, 430). charisma: 60-70% (40), 70-80% (420, 430). Implement avail: 100%. Loader suitability: 50% but add 15% for the power steering option on 420/430, and add 5% for the optional direction reverser transmission. PTO: 540 RPM transm drive (standard on all models); continuous running PTO was an option for models 420 and 430 with 5-speed transm. Power lift: 3-point hitch, category I, included on most wheel tractor models but a few were shipped without. Also a remote hydraulic valve was optional on all models, rarely fitted-- consider yourself lucky to find one.

Configurations: VERY VERY MANY. All 3 models were available as (designation S)  a standard tread model similar to the old model M, with fixed front and rear tread and with crop clearance to straddle a single crop row for cultivation; (designation U) a utility model with fixed front and rear tread and a low squat center of gravity; (designation T) a row crop tractor with adjustable rear wheel tread and larger rear wheels with at least 3 different sub-options for front end, namely (designation T (normal)) dual front wheels on a narrow front end; (designation TN) a single front wheel; (designation TW) an adjustable wide front axle with ample crop clearance; (designation W) a low squat utility model somewhat similar to the U designation but with adjustable front and rear tread; (designation C) a crawler tractor model available with either 4- or 5-roller track frames-- I'll cover crawler models in later installments--; (designation V) a very specialized high-clearance tractor with fixed tread front axle with a crop clearance of 26 inches-- very rare; (designation H) a high crop tractor with adjustable front and rear tread and an under axle crop clearance of 32"-- also very rare.

Notes: These little tractors from John Deere's Dubuque, Iowa plant in the 1950's are highly sought after today both as collector's items and as very handy workhorses for the small acreage. Though they have their quirks, these are highly capable machines which were basically almost tailor-made to suit each original buyer's needs. They feature vertically oriented 2-cylinder engines and a foot clutch, as opposed to the horizontal 2-cyl engines and hand clutch used on the larger model tractors offered by JD in the same time period. All 3 models featured live hydraulics as a standard feature, making them quite suitable for loader operations when equipped with a hydraulic outlet. Their 3-point hitches make them ample platforms to use all the standard modern 3-point implements available. Choose a configuration and fuel combination that suits your needs. The W config is particularly good for use on steep hillsides. Important options include the continuous PTO which was only available if the 420 or 430 was equipped with the 5 speed trans; and evidently not all 5-speeders were equipped with continuous PTO-- it was an option on an option, so to speak. Other options were the remote hydraulic valve-- important for loader work, power steering available on 420/430, and a direction reverser available for the 4-speed trans on 420/430. This is not a power reverser as found on some more modern equipment; it simply allows every forward gear to also be used as a reverse gear, allowing 4 speeds in reverse. For the cost-conscious, you can often get a cheaper deal on the model 40 since collectors tend to skip over it a bit to concentrate on the flashier and more powerful 420 and 430. The 420 and 430 are almost identical mechanically and in terms of capability, the main changes being in styling. The late 420 (after serial 125,000) and the 430 have a beefier transmission than earlier models, so I've been told. . . .

Right now you can buy model 40's in the $3,000-6,000 range, 420's in the $4500-7,000 range, and the fanatically popular 430's all over the board in the $5,000-18,000 range. For all models, the rare hi-crop (H) and hi-clearance special (V) will be extremely expensive due to their rarity and popularity as collector's items-- you probably couldn't touch a running one for less than $25,000 and I see them listed for $40,000 and up as restored collector's items. For your typical farming or gulching operation, you don't need the high clearance. Buy one of the other configurations according to your needs. Keep in mind for most purposes the 420 and 430 are mechanically the same and have the same power, so spend less money and buy a 420. Generally speaking, if these tractors are in decent shape when you buy them and you keep them maintained, they won't let you down. Expect to take care of 5-50 acres with one of these little over-achievers.

My rating: 90% (40) 100% (420, 430).



Model 420, and 40. The 420 is a utility configuration, and painted yellow for industrial applications (ie roadside mowing, etc). The 40 is a rowcrop (40T) with adjustable wide front end. These are just two of many configurations available for these 3 models. Notice how the 420U is lower to the ground than the higher-clearance 40T.



A 40S, or standard. The so-called standard configuration for these models was a single row crop, similar to the config of the earlier model M they were derived from.



And they also made crawler versions. Here is a 420C. We will focus on crawlers when I've exhausted my list of good wheel tractors. . . . .

[jimoutside]

I'm planning to work through the John Deere series and move on to other brands. Also, I don't intend to include certain models if they are basically not suitable for gulching, were built in very small numbers, survived in very small numbers, or were very unreliable. Still, if anyone would like a rundown on ANY model, please let me know. Please only request on model or closely related series at a time. Having said that, here is a short list of John Deere models I don't intend to cover in detail unless specifically requested to do so:

Model                My rating:            Big shortcoming (s)
GP                     30%                    Antiquidated and unreliable, poor parts avail
AR, AO, BR, BO    40-50%               Small numbers built, no power lift
H                        50%                   gutless and unreliable, no power lift
L                        40%                    poor parts avail, no PTO or power lift
LA                      40-50%                poor parts avail, no power lift most had no PTO I think it was an option
320, 330             80%                    good tractors but VERY rare, collectors have driven prices up phenomenally
2010                   50-60%               good features, but notoriously unreliable-- John Deere's #1 lemon ever.

[Hollywoodgold]

Jim:

Have you any opinion regarding the angle and depth of cut that a shredder blade needs to be cut to produce the optimum blade for durability and logevity?

Thanks

[jimoutside]

What type of shredder-- a bush hog sort of a deal? I have mostly just gotten on them and used them with whatever they had already. But you raise a good point-- keeping equipment in optimum shape for the longest possible use from high-wear parts is an important concept particularly in a possible TEOTWAWKI situation. In an end of the world economy, you can't just go buy new blades, tires, batteries, etc. That's one reason why tractors and equipment with standard sized tires (or ones that are close to standard and can be made to fit) are good to have as opposed to ones with odd-ball tire sizes, like the John Deere L. I had an L, and it has 22 inch rear rims, compared to most tractors of that size have a 24" rim. We looked into getting a new tire for it-- one was cracked pretty bad-- and we eventually concluded we'd be best off running it until it popped because 22" tires, though available, were a fairly expensive specialty item.

I also recommend people look hard at owning at least one tractor equipped with a magneto rather than distributor. That way you can operate the tractor without a battery, generator, alternator, or in some cases even without a starter (hand crank it). Early diesels with pony motors often used magnetos on the pony motor, too, meaning in some cases you could start and run a diesel without having a battery or any electrical equipment other than the pony's magneto. (The early Caterpillar Diesels were particularly good that way). Many tractors had magnetos up until around 1950. This would be a later or earlier date depending on the manufacturer.

As for blades, knives, belts, and other high-wear parts for implements, yes, it is worth looking into getting the optimum performance out of them but this isn't something I've studied in depth so far. If you have done any research or experimenting with your blades, Hollywood, please share what you've found.

[jimoutside]

#15. John Deere 50, 520, 530, 1952-1960. 32-39 hp.

Like the 40-420-430 series, these tractors progressed in detail changes throughout their production.

Weight: 4800-5600 lbs. Reliability: 95% Availability: 90% Parts avail: 90-100% Transmission speeds: 6. Fuels available: gasoline (most common), propane, or low-compression "all-fuel". Complexity: 50-55% (50), 55-65% (520, 530). Charisma: 80-90% dep on model and fuel. Implement avail: 100%. Loader suitability: 50% (add 15% for power steering option). PTO: 540 RPM either transmission driven (esp. on many 50's) or optionally independent drive. Make sure you know which it is before you buy. Power lift: rear rock shaft with most examples shipped with category I 3-point hitch (increasingly so as production went on). 3-point is easy to retrofit to these models. Live hydraulics.

Configurations: All model 50-520-530 were row crop tractors and they always had adjustable rear wheel tread. Front end options were quickly interchangeable on any given example; they were designed to be able to be swapped out on the farm for convenience. The 5 front ends available were (1.) narrow front end with dual front wheels; (2.) the same, except equipped with JD's patented Roll-o-Matic ride stabilizer (very popular); (3.) Single front wheel; (4.) adjustable wide front end (moderately popular when built, extremely popular now with collectors) (5.) a seemingly very rare fixed tread wide front axle with ample crop clearance.

Notes: The model 50 replaced JD's model B in 1952 and the 520 and 530 carried the torch through 1960 with few mechanical modifications other than the increase in power received when the 520 was introduced. These were the smallest of John Deere's Waterloo tractors from the era, and carried most of the features of the bigger tractors, but with fewer options. In fact, it was a time when the 50-520-530's power size was falling out of favor for row crop tractors and farmers wanted smaller utility tractors like the 40-420-430 series or they wanted bigger row crop tractors like the 70-720-730. Because of the 50-520-530's lack of widespread support in the company, and their somewhat awkward modesty between the ragingly popular 40-420-430 and 60-620-630, they are a little bit rare-- especially the 530. The 50, on the other hand is fairly common, and the 40-50-60-70-80 series are a little bit overlooked by collectors in favor of the flashier 20 and 30 series that followed after with their big two-tone paint jobs. This means you just might get a 50 for a decent price, but a 530 is going to cost you, with a 520 being in the middle for price. All that having been said, all three are great tractors capable of serious, no-nonsense work, whether it be haying, tillage, forestry, etc. You will find that 50's typically have fewer options installed than the later 520 and 530, although most of the great options such as power steering and independent PTO were available on the 50. (the power steering was not introduced until 1954, toward the end of 50 production). Right now, 50's can be had for about $3,000-5,000, while 520's are about $4,000-8,000, and 530's bless their hearts, are more like $7,000-13,000. Keep in mind most of what separates a 520 from a 530 is cosmetic. With one of these tractors you should be able to farm 15-60 acres. This is one of those tractors that if you can only have one tractor and it has to do everything, a 50, 520, or 530 could fit the bill. The only caveat is with loader use-- you can find better machines to use for a loader platform. These models do have the horizontal 2-cylinder engine and the hand clutch.

 My rating: 100%



A 50 with narrow front end sporting a model 45 (I think) loader.

[jimoutside]

#16. John Deere 60, 620, 630, 1952-1960. 42-49 hp.

Notes: Most of these tractors were row crop machines, but a few were built in standard tread, low profile orchard, and hi-crop models. The early model 60 Standard tread were a hang-over from the model AR standard tread, were built in small numbers, and are basically collector's pieces. They are less functional than the late model 60 standards since they had no possibility of a rear rockshaft. These early standard tread 60's, as well as the 60 and 620 orchard models and all the high-crops, were fairly rare and I will not include these tractors generally in this discussion as a general rule, though I MIGHT add some comments about them below.

Weight: 5300-5900 lbs. Reliability: 95-100%. Availability: 100% Parts avail: 100%. Trans speeds: 6. Fuels available: gasoline (most produced), low compression "all-fuel", propane. Complexity: 55-65%. Charisma: 90%. Implement avail: 100%. Loader suitability: 50% (add 15% if equipped with power steering). PTO: 540 RPM-- I believe all were independent, but check to make sure before you buy-- it could be some were sold with trans. driven PTO. Power lift: Most had a rear rock shaft, and of the ones that did, most had a category I 3-point hitch attached to it, with earlier models less likely to have it than later ones. Most also had a remote hydraulic valve. Live hydraulics.

Configurations: Most of these tractors were row crop models and had the same 5 front end options as my #15., the models 50, 520, and 530. See that description. Also available were standard tread, an orchard model, and a hi-crop. The early standard tread 60 tractors had few parts interchangeable with the row crop 60. About midway through production, this early standard tread was discontinued in favor of the newer style of standard tread, known as a "high-seat standard." The newer type was the same as a row crop 60 but featured a low built front axle and different wheels, tires, and fenders. This configuration was carried through tot he 620 and 630-- their standard tread models also had mainly wheel, fender, and axle differences from the row crop version. These later standards are well worth using; the early 60 standards are less wieldy and harder to get parts for.

Notes: The 60 620 and 630 are a very reliable tractor with the features you need for serious farming. Most everything true of the model 50, 520, and 530 is true of these models as well. As with other JD tractors of the 1950's, collector pressures have boosted the prices of the 630 abnormally above the 620 and 60. Current prices for the 60 are reasonable, around $2500-5000. 620's are going for about $4000-7000, and $5000-12,000 for the 630. For every model, extremely rare variants are of course going for even higher. Work 20-80+ acres with these models. They are big enough to handle smaller round balers and mower conditioners and some of the modern manure spreaders, 4-row planters, grain drills, square balers with ejector, and so on. Too bad they never made a diesel version of these models, but as it is, they are good machines with a lot of spunk.

My rating: 100%

[Hollywoodgold]

What type of shredder-- a bush hog sort of a deal? I have mostly just gotten on them and used them with whatever they had already. But you raise a good point-- keeping equipment in optimum shape for the longest possible use from high-wear parts is an important concept particularly in a possible TEOTWAWKI situation. In an end of the world economy, you can't just go buy new blades, tires, batteries, etc. That's one reason why tractors and equipment with standard sized tires (or ones that are close to standard and can be made to fit) are good to have as opposed to ones with odd-ball tire sizes, like the John Deere L. I had an L, and it has 22 inch rear rims, compared to most tractors of that size have a 24" rim. We looked into getting a new tire for it-- one was cracked pretty bad-- and we eventually concluded we'd be best off running it until it popped because 22" tires, though available, were a fairly expensive specialty item.

I also recommend people look hard at owning at least one tractor equipped with a magneto rather than distributor. That way you can operate the tractor without a battery, generator, alternator, or in some cases even without a starter (hand crank it). Early diesels with pony motors often used magnetos on the pony motor, too, meaning in some cases you could start and run a diesel without having a battery or any electrical equipment other than the pony's magneto. (The early Caterpillar Diesels were particularly good that way). Many tractors had magnetos up until around 1950. This would be a later or earlier date depending on the manufacturer.

As for blades, knives, belts, and other high-wear parts for implements, yes, it is worth looking into getting the optimum performance out of them but this isn't something I've studied in depth so far. If you have done any research or experimenting with your blades, Hollywood, please share what you've found.

I understand. I bought a 4.5" grinder and had at the 3/8 inch blades that  had been rounded on my 15' batwing. Ground 4 of the 6 to a soft point as opposed to a sharp point. Big improvement in pasture cut. Left a rooster tail under the 2 blades I didn't sharpen. Will talk to the tractor maintanence guys this weekend and report.

[jimoutside]

Sounds good, HWG. By soft tip-- do you mean you rounded it off, or what?

[Vydunas]

Re PTOs and Ford N series:

This is probably stupid stuff for people with big tractor experience...but because it was stupid stuff, I never read it anywhere and had to learn the hard way.

1. An 8N has a 1 1/8" PTO, and standard driveshaft is 1 3/4". This can and should be dealt with economically by installing an override clutch, which will also keep your brush hog from pushing your tractor forward, Unfortunately, the override clutch extends the PTO by about a half a foot, which may mean that you have to cut down the PTO shaft on your implements. This is pretty easy with a reciprocal saw, but is a scary thought it you're a n00b and not too mechanical. I was actually stupid enough to attempt to hook up to the 1 1/8". which meant that I was going through pins like popcorn.

2. Because the 8Ns have a fast 1st gear and no live PTO, trying to run a tiller is not recommended, as you'll be going too fast to engage the ground. There are some out there with a custom/aftermarket transmission that might work, but not your standard 8N

[Clip Johnson]

I would like to interrupt here for a brief moment just to say thanks Jim for staying up late so many evenings to post all the info you've provided thus far. I can't tell you how helpful it has been to me and greatly appreciated.

I have been considering a barter of my carpentry services for a 1962 International Cub tractor. After reading your postings here, I am more comfortable in going through with the deal, as I have very little working knowledge of tractors. I simply wasn't sure of the reliability of this particular tractor given its age.

[jimoutside]

The Cub is very reliable within its limitations. My grandfather had one for over 50 years which he used regularly. I believe he had the engine overhauled at one point.

Both the Cub and the Ford 8N have the small diameter PTO. Adapters are available (at least, were made at one time) to give you the proper size shaft. Check first with your local tractor supplier or check online-- I haven't had a tractor yet where I needed to do this, although I have owned at least one with the small PTO, but I didn't use it.
Actually, a simple search yielded this site right here with adapters for different tractors:

http://www.doublehh.com/products.cfm?prodID=123&catID=2

Jim